Product review: The Fresh Crème Ancienne Supreme Eye Serum

When getting older, the periorbital wrinkles would become more obvious. We have higher requirements for wettability of one product.

Why?

We should start with the water in the stratum corneum.

As we all know, our stratum corneum is naturally self-contained with water, but few people know that the water in the stratum corneum is actually divided into three different types, their characteristics are also very different, and the impact on the skin is also different:

The first type is called primary binding water (also known as intrinsic binding water): it accounts for about 5% of the dry weight of the stratum corneum. It is mainly combined with the polar group of the stratum corneum structural protein. The binding is very tight. When the instantaneous air humidity is 0, this part of the water will not be released, only when heated for 160 degree Celsius for 3 minutes, it will start evaporate.. However, only with this water, the stratum corneum will still be dry and crunchy. and, in various skin conditions, the water content is  about the same, that is to say the effect of this water on your skin is negligible.

he second type is called secondary binding water: they are mainly combined by weak hydrogen bonds in the stratum corneum, so they are relatively loose and easy to lose, but this water is closely related with the hydration state of the stratum corneum. That is to say that whether your skin feels soft and tender, or dry basically depends on the performance of this kind of water. In good condition, this kind of water in the stratum corneum can reach 40%;

The third type is called free water: the fine water droplets present in the stratum corneum when the above bound water reaches saturation are all free water, and they generally appear in the interstices of the stratum corneum ultrastructure. This accumulation of water is the so-called “over-hydration” state, which leads to the destruction of the stratum corneum and makes the stratum corneum more fragile. . . Fortunately, this kind of water, come fast, go fast~ I will say that most of the water that you put on the mask is the free water that comes and goes

So, under what circumstances will the secondary combined water in your stratum corneum be insufficient? (about equal to the skin shrinkage)

I have summed up that there are two main situations in which a physiologically healthy skin may have this problem:

1.The ambient humidity is too low, and the secondary water in the stratum corneum is captured;

2.Skin aging, the ability of the stratum corneum itself to bind secondary water is worse;

So, how to deal with it?

The first case is relatively simple, two moisturizing means could be applied – closed moisturizing or water absorbing moisturizing, to reduce evaporation. This article will not address this issue. Instead, we will focus on the second case – skin aging.

1. Why does the ability of the stratum corneum itself to bind secondary water decline after skin aging?

Because the skin is aging, most people can only see the wrinkles increase, skin get rough and dry, spotted and so on, but do not know that these symptoms actually mean that the functions of your skin cells have diverted from the best condition. As a result, the amount of structural water-deficient components such as structural lipids and NMF in the stratum corneum is insufficient, and the quality is not correct, and thus the water shortage of the stratum corneum occurs.

What can you do in the face of such a problem?

First, reversing the symptoms of aging, improving the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum itself, and indirectly achieving the purpose of supplementing the secondary combined water;

Secondly, the stratum corneum could be directly supplemented with secondary bound water, and the method includes supplementing the water while supplementing the structural lipid or the like, NMF or the like which can absorb and lock the moisture;

Well, the vast majority of skin care products on the market can achieve the second purpose ! Includes the essence of this eye discussed today. However, the effect gap between the various products is visible to the human flesh. The key point of the gap is the wettability mentioned above!

2. So, what does this wettability mean?

Simply put, the ability of the product to penetrate the stratum corneum!

Is it so difficult to absorb skin care products by the stratum corneum?

Even if aging, the barrier function of stratum corneum is still on. if not, You can be infected and died in seconds

This is a detailed picture of the stratum corneum structure lipid:

As can be seen from the figure, the structural lipids are arranged like a sandwich biscuit, the hydrophilic end is gathered at one end, and the water and a small amount of NMF are enclosed inside to form a thin “reservoir” (pair, stratum corneum) Not only is there NMF in the keratinocytes, but also a small part of the outer structural lipids. The oleophilic end is gathered at the other end, facing outward, and is condensed with the lipophilic end of another layer of lipid to form a layer. The structural lipid of the stratum corneum is a layer of water and a layer of oil.

In addition to improving the water retention capacity of the stratum corneum, this special structure is also an important guarantee for the barrier function of the stratum corneum. Because the ingredients that can be perfectly mixed with water are often not perfectly integrated into the lipids, this layer of water and a layer of oil make it even more difficult to penetrate into the stratum corneum. So, it’s obvious that the skin care products you applied are not so easy to get in.

Of course, this barrier is not impenetrable . In many cases, it can’t completely reject your “hospitality” and even open some channels for you. For example, there are a lot of similar substances in the main component of the product you are applying. It can be more easily mixed with them (like synthetic ceramides, or a variety of natural oils); for example, there are things in your product that can forcibly dismantle structural lipids (episode, alcohol, azone)

Seeing this, you probably already guessed what kind of product is better in moisturizing

 I think the product should have the following 3 characters:

1. The lipids or humectants contained are similar to the stratum corneum structure lipids.

However, the ingredients with high affinity are generally more expensive.

  • have an appropriate surfactant;.
  • Face mask hard foam with proper amount of moisturizer

The fresh Crème Ancienne Supreme Eye Serum is in line with these conditions, so there will be an eye-visible improvement effect on the dry lines of the eyes that have already appeared, and with a relatively refreshing texture, it is easy to capture your heart, and stick to it for a long time~

Smoothing fine lines is only the most superficial effect of this level of product (although it is also very important). In fact, Fresh use a super expensive plant extract ingredient – Acacia bark extract. (also known as Persian silk bark extract).

What can this thing do?

A: Antioxidant + anti-glycation!

In short, the product is perfect besides a little bit expensive ~ very recommended ~ PS: If the environment is warm (more than 30% humidity), it can be used alone; if the environment is particularly dry, it is necessary to superimpose other products with strong sealing, such as the same series of eye cream or the ultimate moisturizing cream for closed moisturizing ( Yes, most of the creams can be used in the eyes, no doubt.)

Also, this set of eye products is also equipped with a massage stick! ! !



The official propaganda is to apply eye products with small balls, but I like to apply it with my hands. So after apply the products, I use a small ball to roll back and forth in the eye. It is super comfortable! ! ! Because the effect of massage + sedation is very obvious, it is quite convenient for a girl with edema-type eye bags and capillary-type dark circles. In fact, the acacia bark extract contained here also has anti-inflammatory effects,which can also reduce the edema and dilute the capillary type of dark circles.



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